Are Cheap Smart Telescopes Any Good?
My ultimate goal is to turn everyone into a nerd thereby making myself look comparatively less nerdy🤣 but for many nerds smart telescopes make astrophotography so easy that their users don’t qualify as nerds. I don’t go along with this, I just want to take amazing pictures of the universe and after considerable testing of the Dwarf 3, the SeeStar S30 and the SeeStar S30 Pro (which I will run through in this article) I discovered that ZWO’s cheap SeeStar smartscopes do deliver amazing pictures of the universe.😱

The Seestar S30 delivers sharp enough images for you to take and process yourself, creating really great astrophotography. It’s quick to set up, reliable, and actually works as advertised. Without hesitation, I give it the Biscuit Seal of Approval as the best beginner’s telescope and the cheapest way of exploring the universe. If you are interested mostly in galaxies (which will fit on its relatively modestly sized sensor) then this is all the scope you need.

SeeStar S30 Pro: If you can afford the extra £250, the S30 Pro is the superior instrument. The bigger sensor, better corner performance which helps when stitching multiple panels together, and 3x increase in useful photons make it a significant upgrade. For serious beginners who perhaps want to create a high resolution widefield mosaics (that’s what I’d do if I had one of these😁).
Rosette Nebula from My London Roof
These shots were captured over the course of 3 hours using the smart scopes inbuilt light pollution filter from Zone 2 in London (Bortle 8). Each Smart Telescope took less than 5 minutes to capture its first sub exposure – wow😁. I took10 second exposures. I stacked and processed the sub exposures myself using Astropixel Processor, Graxpert for the gradients, Starnet 2 and Affinity 2 for a final grade and sharpen. My original Dwarf 3 had collimation issues (see below) so in this test I borrowed another Dwarf 3 from FLO whose optics were excellent.






What do these pictures tell me.
The Rosette Nebula is close to the celestial equator and therefore as the earth spins this target moves quickly across the sky making it one of the hardest targets to track. I had to bin more than 80% of the Dwarf’s sub exposures due to poor tracking and that impacted the quality of the final image. The Seestar S30 and S30 Pro both lost less than 50% of their sub exposures. Ultimately the good tracking on the Seestars is what makes them work so well.
The main difference between the S30 and the S30 Pro is that the Pro covers a lot more of the sky and each bit of the sky is at the same level of detail as the S30. Also if you look closely you will see the stars in the corner’s of the S30’s frame are slightly egg shaped. This is not a big problem most of the time but could potentially be noticeable if you are stitching panels together in a mosaic.
Looking at pictures is all well and good but I also wanted to quantitatively measure the performance of these smartscopes (and all future tests of telescopes too!) so I devised a system which I’m calling the Useful Photon Ratio.
The “Useful Photon Ratio” Rating System
When comparing telescopes, manufacturers love to tout aperture size and sensor dimensions. “Bigger is better!” they proclaim. But in reality, it’s not about how many photons you collect – it’s about how many you keep and how sharp they are. The Useful Photon Ratio accounts for three critical factors that determine real-world performance:
Useful photons
=
Number of photons hitting the sensor
MINUS Blurry photons from poor tracking
MINUS Blurry photons from poor optics

I’m happy to say that having tested these smartscopes in my optical dungeon and mechanical tests on my roof my Useful Photon Ratio rating system seems to agree with the real world qualitative results from the Rosette Nebula pictures. Before we delve deeply into how the useful photon ratio value is worked out I would like to point out that this system is blind to the telescope’s focal length. It doesn’t matter how zoomed in you are the Useful Photon Ratio is simply a measure of the number of useful photons that haven’t been blurred by wonky tracking or poor optics that hits your sensor. Thus its possible that a little widefield telescope could have a better Useful Photon Ratio than the Hubble space telescope.
The rating is normalized to the Seestar S30 for easy comparison. The S30 baseline score is 48, representing the 48 useful photons (producing sharp stars) that survive for every 100 photons that land on its sensor. A score of 100 would mean the scope produces twice as many useful photons as the S30. A score of 24 would mean half as many. Higher numbers = more usable data = better images.
1. Raw Photon Collecting Power (Focal Ratio & Sensor Size)
Larger sensors and faster focal ratios collect more photons from extended objects like nebulae and galaxies. This is the “raw photon collection” starting point.

Despite the S30 Pro having slower optics than the Dwarf (f5.3 vs f4.3) the S30 Pro’s huge sensor means it will catch 40% more photons than the dwarf and a whopping 350% more than the regular S30. However the Dwarf is a couple of hundred quid cheaper so it looks like quite a good deal. Thing is you can’t trust the marketing bumf because astrophotography is about more than just raw light-gathering power; it requires precision. Cheap rigs often have to compromise, and it turns out that a lot of the Dwarf’s photons are wasted due to poor tracking.
2. Photons Lost to Poor Tracking
If your mount can’t track accurately, stars trail and exposures get thrown away. My test kept only exposures with acceptably round stars. Scopes with poor tracking waste the majority of collected photons.

All 3 smartscopes tracked stars near the celestial equator (the hardest part of the sky to track) simultaneously from my roof in London. The Dwarf 3 tracked poorly. I’ve used 3 different Dwarf 3’s now and each one seems to track badly. The Seestar S30 and S30 Pro are both pretty good. I believe the mechanics of them are identical. BTW when shooting Andromeda which is high in the sky the tracking of the Seestar S30 was at about 80%. I would expect all three smartscopes to perform significantly better when their targets are far from the celestial equator.
3. Photons Lost to Poor Optics
Bad collimation, excessive chromatic aberration, or severe corner distortion blur your images. Blurred photons aren’t useful photons – they’re just spreading light around instead of forming sharp points. There is also question of quality control too as my initial dwarf had crooked optics.
Collimation Test
Collimation is arguably the most critical optical test for any telescope. If the optical elements aren’t perfectly aligned, the entire instrument becomes useless – an expensive paperweight. To test collimation, I use an artificial star setup in my optical dungeon. The light from the artificial star reflects off a 16-inch parabolic mirror, creating parallel wavefronts that simulate a star at infinity.
When you take a star out of focus, a properly collimated scope shows beautiful, concentric rings (known as diffraction patterns). The first Dwarf 3 I tested showed a concerning asymmetry – the donut around the central spot was brighter on one side, indicating a collimation error making this telescope next to useless. However I tested an alternate Dwarf 3 and it’s collimation was flawless. I suspect mine was a dud and it probably should have been sent back. Lucky I was able to test other units which were optically excellent (see sharpness test below).
Sharpness Test
A good way to test overall sharpness is simple to take a picture. To replicate stars that are hundreds of light years away my biscuit logo image is being reflected off my 16 inch parabolic mirror. All the properly collimated telescopes were extremely sharp.

Chromatic Aberration and Flat field Test
Chromatic aberration occurs when a lens fails to focus all colours at the same point. You can easily spot chromatic aberration with a bhatinov mask as the diffraction patterns lines of either the red, green or blue sections veer off from straight.
I also use a bhatinov mask to check for a flat field. A flat field is a fancy way of saying that the image stays in focus all the way to the corners of the sensor. If the corners are out of focus the bhatinov mask’s central diffraction line will not be centered.

I found that the Seestar S30 did not have a flat field. 20% of the photons hitting its sensor (those in the corners) were not in focus (see red circle in above picture) and would produce egg shaped stars. Although the edge of the field is the least important area of the sensor when shooting objects that fit nicely inside the sensor I deducted 20% from the S30’s useful photon count as this aberration will impact multi panel mosaics and I feel that mosaicking is something most S30 users will end up doing.
Final Thoughts
Ultimately, the Seestar S30 is undeniably the cheapest way to genuinely explore the universe. It delivers sharp enough images for you to process yourself and create truly great pictures. And if you have a bit more budget, the Seestar S30 Pro takes everything great about the S30 and upgrades it with a much larger sensor and better corner-to-corner optics which allows for widefield mosaics of our galaxy (which is what I’d use the S30 Pro for if I hadn’t have had to give it back!).






